Did you used to wonder what friendship could be, yearn for big adventure, and tons of fun? Does magic not make things all complete? If you said yes to one, or all of these questions, you may like My Little Pony: Friendship is Magic. I too, like My Little Pony, and I’ve developed a penchant for collecting pony toys. I also like taking pictures of things. I’ve been taking pictures of my ponies for a while, and have decided to write a tutorial on the process.
You don’t need a good camera to take good pictures. It’s all about lighting, how the subject is presented, the photographer, and post. Post is important. Here’s a video by Lee Morris, he’s a photographer who did a fashion photo shoot with an iPhone.
The results look good because he has professional lighting, is a professional photographer, and was shooting professional models, the pictures then got touched up by someone who touches up pictures for a living. In that situation, the camera doesn’t matter. He could be taking those shots with anything, and they’d look amazing.
First thing you need to do is assess your situation, this does not include determining you need a better camera. Don’t say your camera’s not good enough. If you say your camera’s not good enough I’ll start taking pictures using my Samsung Eternity’s 3MP sensor and equally bad lens, and they’ll look good, and they’ll look good because I’m a good photographer (egotistical, I know, but enough people have commended my work, so I’ll go ahead and say I’m a good photographer), I control the lighting, and before I take a picture of my ponies, I make sure they look good. After all of that, I do a bit of editing in GIMP to make sure everything looks how I want.
Lighting.
There are a lot of ways to get good lighting for your ponies, and natural light is always the best light. Always every day of the week, natural light looks the best, and the best natural light is slightly overcast during midday. However, you can’t always set up a shooting environment in the middle of the day, and most people will regard you as a little bit weird if you’ve set up a photo shoot for ponies in your backyard. For those of us who live in apartments, we’d have to do this in a park, and that’d be a little bit strange.
This is where controlled lighting comes in. I use a lightbox I made myself, and as you can see, it makes Rarity look fabulous, as if her fabulosity was ever in doubt.
There are lots of ways to make a light box, if you want to see more, google ‘DIY lightbox’, but for now, I’ll share mine;
It’s just five squares of cardboard, three of which have the middle cut out, printer paper used as a diffusor, and a piece of white posterboard for the backdrop. I taped it together using duct tape, and some clear packaging tape to hold the posterboard in place.
Mine is 12″x12″, I can’t recommend you make one that small. Mine’s only big enough to take pictures of G4s. After I made it, it became immediately apparent that I’ll have to build a larger one, which is something I’m going to be doing, and soonly. Below are the plans for making one like mine, but the same principles apply if you want to make a larger one. Cut away all but a 2″ part around the edges, this will provide enough support to keep it together while still let the diffusers let in a lot of light.
Click to embiggen
When you put the posterboard in, DON’T CREASE IT! Let it curve between the bottom, and the back, this will give a seamless backdrop. I set mine in so the curve would bend as tight as possible without creasing, I then cut off the excess that was hanging over the top and front, and taped it down with clear packaging tape. This plan scales up to whatever you need. 36″ wide and 18″ tall would definitely be big enough to take pictures of pretty much everything, 24″x18″ would work, but 12″x12″ is really small, I don’t advise you make one this small. If you’re making one bigger, keep the 2″ frame around the edges, and apply your diffusers. I glued down printer paper with a gluestick, but you can use cloth, paper, something that will let light through.
For lighting I’m using two clamp lights hanging off of microphones stands to shine light in from the sides, and the top light is provided by some gaudy lamp my dad bought and left at my apartment. I’m using what’s available, and working on the cheapest budget possible. The clamp lights were bought at a local hardare store for five bucks a piece, and they’re really awesome for lighting up a lightbox. If you can, invest in a pair, or three. Two for the sides, and one for the top.
Lamps with with the lampshades taken off and placed on the sides will work, and also hurt your eyes. But, if you’re working on a budget, and want to take totally awesome pictures of your ponies, the shadeless lamps will work. Overhead light is ideal, but if you have side lighting, you can get away without using it. Same for the opposite. If you have overhead lighting, and no side lighting, you can get away with that, too. But, the more lights, the better. If you can, light the sides, top, and front.
Taking the pictures.
If you don’t know how to use your camera, read the manual. I am not even joking. I’m not a professional photographer, but I’ve had shots licensed, and I’m still shooting film, which people think is some sort of hardcore mode for photography (it’s not). Not to sound arrogant, but I’m good, I’m not a great photographer, but I’m good, and when I get a new camera body, I read the manual. If you know how to use your camera, you’ll be taking better pictures.
I also advise the use of a tripod, not because you’ll need it to avoid camera shake (your exposure times shouldn’t be long enough for that to be a problem), but to keep the framing consistent. If you’re holding onto your camera and moving your pony around to take better pictures of their tail, rather than their mane, the framing will be different. And I advise you shoot in full manual. Adjust the exposure time, and take lots of pictures at different focus distances. Don’t use autofocus unless you have a good camera. Autofocus on cheap cameras is hit or miss. If you want to really get into it, measure the distance between your camera and pony, and take a few shots with the focus at that range, and plus or minus a bit. This way you’ll definitely get the shot you want.
WHITE BALANCE! OH GOD USE WHITE BALANCE. That’s in caps because it’s important. White balance BEFORE you put your pony in your lightbox. If you adjust the white balance after you put your pony in, here’s what happens;
Ew. Here’s what happens when you white balance before you put your pony in.
Ooh, ahh! Fanciful!
These are pre-post, I’ll discuss that step later on. But let’s talk about some photography basics right now.
Three things you need to know. ISO, aperture, and exposure:
ISO: Your camera has this setting called ISO. ISO is how sensitive the sensor is to light. I’m not sure how ISO works in digital cameras (or in colour film, but ISO is ISO, so 100 ISO black and white film is just as sensitive as 100 ISO colour film), but in black and white film, ISO refers to how many light sensitive particles there are on the film. A low ISO isn’t as light sensitive because it has more light sensitive particles on the film, therefore it needs more light to get a properly exposed picture, which means you need a longer exposure time. However, the benefit is that with the increased number of light sensitive particles, the finer the image will be. On the contrary, a high ISO film doesn’t have as many light sensitive particles, so it doesn’t need to be exposed to as much light to get a proper exposure. The result is shorter exposure time, but the image isn’t nearly as fine. Here’s an example of a model shot with 25 ISO film;
(I did not take this picture. It was taken by Aurelien Le Duc who is an awesome photographer.
And here’s an example of a violinist shot 3200 ISO film;
I did take this picture! You can see more of my photography here. Also, click to embiggen.
As you can see, the 25 ISO film is very fine and very detailed when compared to the 3200 ISO film, which is a really grainy shot. The 25 ISO film was shot in a studio with controlled, and I’m sure, very bright lighting. In that situation, it’s ideal to use low ISO film, because you’ll get a very fine picture.
The 3200 ISO shot was taken on a dimly lit stage, and even when shooting at 3200 ISO, my exposure time was 1/15th of a second. If I were shooting with 25 ISO film I’d have to keep my shutter open for more than a second to get a proper exposure and when you’re doing concert photography, that is not doable.
That’s your film primer. How does film ISO apply to digital cameras? Your digital camera has an ISO setting, and it works under the same principle. The lower the ISO number, more data will be captured resulting in a more detailed image, but longer exposure time. The contrary applies, high ISO, less detail captured, less detailed image, shorter exposure time.
What all this means is; Set your camera to the lowest ISO.
Aperture: Aperture or f-stop refers to the opening in the lens, that opening is controlled by a series of blades within the lens, they slide inward and outward to adjust the size of the opening at the lens. The wider the opening allowed by the aperture, the lower the f-stop, the more narrow the opening, the higher the f-stop.

Here’s an example of the aperture blades adjust the f-stop of a camera lens (photo by Jolahyjek)
F-stops go from .95 all the way up to 32 or higher, though the most common high f/stop is 32, and the most common low f-stop is 1.8. F-stops are read as something like f/32, which is focal length divided by 32. Let’s say you have a lens with a 200mm focal length, and you’re shooting at f/32. Divide 200mm by 32, and that’s how wide the opening on your lens is. In the case of 200/32, that’s only a 6.25mm opening! Not a lot of light is getting in through there, so you’ll need longer exposure times.
However, with a narrower aperture, you’ll have a larger depth of field. Depth of what? Depth of field refers to how much of the image is in focus. If you’re shooting f/32, pretty much everything from the foreground to background will be in focus, but the downside is not a lot of light will be getting in through your lens, and you’ll need a longer exposure time.
Larger apertures, such as 1.8, allow the lens a really wide opening, and let a lot of light in, however the depth of field is really narrow. Let’s say you’re shooting on a 50mm lens set to a really low aperture, like 1.7. That’s a 30mm opening at the end of your lense! That will let a lot of light in. However, with a really low f-stop, your depth of field is very narrow. Not a lot will be in focus. Here’s a great example of depth of field. This was taken at about a meter away with a 50mm lens at 1.7. As you can see, there’s only a little bit of it in focus;
There’s a lot of math involved in calculating depth of field. How far away your subject is, and your focal length have an effect on your depth of field. if your subject is far away, and you’re shooting at something like f/2.8, you’ll have a wider depth of field than if you’re shooting something that’s only a meter away.
What all this means; Since you’ll be taking pictures of ponies from a close range, choose a lower f-stop, start around 4.0, but don’t be afraid to go lower. If you shoot at something low, like 1.8, you can get just your ponys face and mane in focus, and it’s a really cool effect. But if you want to get all of your pony in focus, try something around 4.0, or higher. You don’t need anything higher than 8 for shooting ponies that are going to be less than a meter away from your lens.
Exposure: Exposure refers to how long your shutter is open, and how much light is hitting your cameras sensor, or film (if you’re still shooting film). The exposure time will be determined by your ISO, and aperture. Low ISO plus high aperture equates to longer exposure. High ISO plus low aperture equates to shorter exposure. Since this guide is for shooting well lit ponies, the exposure times will always be short, even if you’re shooting at 100 ISO with an f-stop of, let’s say 11, your exposure time should still be high enough to let you shoot without a tripod, which if you have steady hands, is about 1/15th of a second, though I still advise the use of a tripod.
What this means; When you have your ISO as low as it will go, your aperture dialed in, and your pony well lit, your exposure times shouldn’t be low, at all. This means you won’t need a tripod, but I still recommend one.
Taking the pictures:
Is your ponys hair all prettied up? Lighting set? White balance set? F-stop good? Tripod steady? Exposure time look good? Have your pony in focus? Shoot! After everything you’ve read above, this doesn’t need to be a long section. Shoot! Adjust your focus and shoot again, and again! After that’s done, take your memory card back to your computer. Now, we will begin post!
Post:
Did you take your pictures? Does your pony look awesome? Of course it does, now let’s make it look more awesome! There’s all this fuss around photoshop, but I disagree with it. I use GIMP. Since this is a budget conscious tutorial, and GIMP is free, I’ll be using GIMP.
Install GIMP! It’s free, it’s awesome!
Open your image! After you install GIMP you can right click an image and select open in GIMP, open it via the GIMP menu, or drag and drop it into GIMP, so many choices!
Click the images to embiggen.
Okay, now what? First things first, brightness and contrast! Go to the colours menu, and select brighness & contrast.
This will open your brightness & contrast menu, from here select “edit these as levels”, and you’ll be treated to this menu;
There are three sliders. To make things simple, the one of the far right adjusts the highlights, move it and the bright parts will get brighter or darker. The one in the middle adjust the midtones, adjust it, and the midtones will get brighter or darker. The one of the far left adjust the overall brightness. Adjust all three of them to taste, play around with ‘em, see what you like.
After that, play around with the color balance. Go to colors, and select color balance;
From here, adjust them as you see fit. I usually stick with just adjusting the midtones, but if you want more control, you can adjust the shadows, midtones, and highlights individually.
Once you’ve gotten the colours to a level you like, scale it, and share! To scale, just go to Image, and select Scale Image. You’ll be prompted with this menu;
Scale it to whatever you want, it does the math for your! Unless you click the link button to the right of the numbers, then you can enter ‘em manually, but if you make them too out of proportion, your image will look askew.
Here’s how my Cupcake looks after post;
Hooray! Now your ponies can look just as pretty! High five?